Tuesday, March 4, 2025

Middle Carter: 3/3/25


The deep snowpack of late winter makes this a great time to visit the high, wooded crest of the Carter Range. The snowshoer ascending to the Carters is lifted above the scrub for views that are much less open in summer. One of the best spots is the actual summit of Middle Carter, where at this time of year there is a sweeping vista over the Wild River Wilderness.
 
For the approach on this cold but 100% sunny day, I used the south leg of the Imp Trail starting off NH 16. I was pleased to find the trail broken out with a somewhat choppy track. The first mile is a southward traverse at mostly easy grades, through hardwoods and hemlocks.



After passing the unofficial "Camp Dodge Cutoff," the trail swings SE and begins to climb. The track on this section of the trail was quite crusty, thanks to a recent thaw and re-freeze.
 


Farther up it makes a big bend to the NE where it approaches Cowboy Brook.



A glimpse of the whitened Presidentials through the trees.



The next 1.6 miles is a long, steady climb, soon passing into darker conifer forest. This section is quite rocky in summer. Much more pleasant in snowshoes.



Reaching the junction with North Carter Trail at 3.2 miles.



The lower part of North Carter Trail passes through open woods at fairly easy grades.



The woods became snowier as I ascended.



Duck!





Tunnel effect.



Lotsa snow up here. The track bypasses this to the right. Thanks to those who broke this route out!



The upper half of the North Carter Trail climbs more steadily, here through a beautiful open fir glade.



Drifty.



 
Onto the ridgecrest.





Winter beauty at 4500 ft.




First views, from the second of five knobs the Carter-Moriah Trail rambles over en route to Middle Carter. North Carter looms close by on the left. Snowy Old Speck is seen in the center, far to the north. To the right, Sunday River Whitecap is seen above Mt. Moriah.




Weaving through snowy sentinels.



After skirting the west side of scrub-grown Mt. Lethe, the trail descends to cross a subalpine black spruce bog.



More views on the next little knob, with Middle Carter's summit on the left.



The wind had exposed some bare rock here.



Ascending the open rocky knob just north of Middle Carter's summit. The cold wind had some bite here.



Great views in several directions from this knob, here looking NW to the Pliny and Pilot Ranges. The whitened talus slope identifies Mt. Cabot, just left of center. The Percy Peaks are seen on the horizon above ledgy Pine Mountain and darkly wooded Black Crescent Mountain.



Looking north to waves of mountains leading off into Maine.




East to Caribou Mountain, the Royces and Speckled Mountain.




South to Carter Dome, South Carter, Wildcats and the Sandwich Range.



 
Ascending the open north shoulder of Middle Carter.



 

Ah, the Presidentials.


Boott Spur, Washington and Clay.




The sweeping view over the Wild River Wilderness from the summit of Middle Carter. The snaking ridge in the center descends four miles to the edge of the Wild River.


 

I was able to spend an hour studying the expansive views. Though the temperature was probably around 5 above (it was -2 on Washington, 1600 ft. higher), the sun was wonderful and the west wind was blocked by trees behind the outlook. Mt. Hight and its great NE ridge loom darkly to the south.



The old Y-shaped slide on that ridge probably dates back to the November 1927 rainstorm. That would be a difficult slide to reach, far up the Cypress Brook valley.



Looking across the spacious, trailless Cypress Brook valley to Eagle Crag, the Baldfaces and Sable Mountain.



Meader Ridge above the central part of the Wild River valley, with vast Maine lowlands beyond.



Looking towards Speckled Mountain.



Caribou Mountain is seen beyond the lower Moriah Brook valley.



At one point I made a foray south along the trail to warm up and find some additional views, such as this look at slide-scarred Carter Dome and Mt. Hight.




An expanded view to the south, including Tecumseh, the Osceolas, Carrigain and Hancock.




Mt. Jefferson, with the sun highlighting the top of Jefferson's Knee.




Leaving the summit after a final look.



Descending the open shoulder of Middle Carter.
 


A good look at the sprawling ledgy mass of Mt. Moriah.




The steep east face of Middle Carter.



Looking back.




Sun-dappled along the ridge.




Great snowshoeing down the North Carter Trail. Thanks to the snowshoers who smoothed out bare booters' divots.



Finding the light.
 



Late afternoon glow.




Presy sunset, prelude to the faint light of a crescent moon and, in the darker woods, the bright glare of my headlamp.



 

Saturday, March 1, 2025

Mount Hale via Firewarden's Trail: 2/28/25

The Firewarden's Trail up the west side of Mount Hale, which is not officially maintained but is regularly used, especially in winter, is one of my favorite snowshoe hikes in the Whites. This old tractor road, which served the former fire tower on the summit, has consistently moderate grades with several long switchbacks. On this trail, the forest is the star, with a gorgeous succession of northern hardwood,  white birch, and boreal fir forest as you gain elevation.
 
We had 5 inches of snow in Lincoln the day before the hike, so I expected to be breaking trail right from the start. It was a surprise to arrive at the Seven Dwarfs Motel in Twin Mountain and find just a dusting of new snow. After leaving $10 on my windshield, I set off up Little River Road, crossed the bridges (snowshoes or spikes should not be worn on the bridges per the owner's request) and put my snowshoes on for the trail connecting to Haystack Road. There were two snowshoers ahead of me. The track was crusty and a bit choppy under the new dusting. 




At Haystack Road (FR 304), these snowshoers veered off to the right, towards Peak Above the Nubble. I turned left for the 0.7 mile stretch of snowmobile-groomed road to the start of the North Twin Trail.



The approach to this trailhead from Seven Dwarfs is 1.5 miles, as opposed to 2.5 miles walking all the way up Haystack Road from Route 3.


Still just a dusting of new snow atop a solid crusty track, with an occasional snowshoe posthole as noted on a recent newenglandtrailconditions.com report. Easy cruising on the grade of the Little River Railroad, which ran six miles up this valley and operated from 1893-1900.



These ice flows are a familiar landmark along this section of trail.




There's a short ladder under the snow here, part of a recent relocation on the North Twin Trail. I bypassed it along the side. Note the remnant piece of rail jutting from the bank.



The Little River was locked in, fully muffled in snow and ice. I snowshoed out onto it for a long look upstream.



Tracks on the river.



The only mildly sketchy spot on the Firewarden's Trail is a short, steep sidehill not far above the North Twin Trail. This contrasts with the long, nasty sidehill section on the Hale Brook Trail.



Looking back at Peak Above the Nubble, which I had climbed four days earlier. From this angle the mountain's wide eastern slides are prominent.





The lower part of the Firewarden's Trail ascends easily through a fine northern hardwood forest. The trail was opened in 1928 when the USFS built a steel lookout tower on the summit of Mount Hale. At that time it was known as the Mount Hale Trail. The tower was in use through 1948. The trail was abandoned in the early 1960s and the tower was removed in 1972. In the 1990s backcountry skiers revived the trail as an access to the valley's birch glades, and it subsequently was "rediscovered" by hikers.



Not far up, the depth of the new snow increased to several inches, and for many stretches there was no visual evidence of the old track. Only by probing with poles was I able to stay on top of it, for the most part. Thanks to those who packed down that hidden track before the latest snowfall.



A long sunlit corridor through the birches. These gorgeous  glades are the legacy of a 1903 forest fire.



Making first tracks. Before long there was a consistent 5+ inches of new snow.



Looking across the valley to cliffs on the NW ridge of Mount Hale.



Heading up into a switchback.



Good tracking snow.


 

I had two options for the hike: climb to the summit of Mount Hale, or bushwhack to a ledge with a unique view of the Little River valley, starting a bit less than halfway up  the trail. I made several test steps in the snow beside the trail, and decided it was just too soft for whacking. Though it would have been just a quarter mile to the ledge, there would have been too much wallowing in thigh-deep snow.






Nope. The summit it would be.




The forest is continuously beautiful along this trail.



The air was crystal clear this day, as glimpsed out through the trees. I could pick out the Jay Peaks in northern Vermont on the horizon.




Into the fir woods on the upper switchback.



Magical forest.



A lovely corridor leading up to the crest of the ridge.





A whole other world up here.




Drifts.



Mount Hale is notorious for its lack of views, but this one spot on the Firewarden's Trail, at the top of a blowdown patch, has a good one of the Presidentials rising beyond the Rosebrook Range, especially with deep snowpack.




Zoomed.



A gallery of winter's beauty.




Open woods on Hale's northern sub-peak.



Momentarily lost the trail in this area of drifts, scrub and blowdown.



The col between the sub-peak and the main summit.




Classic winter wonderland.



Tunneling.



Final approach to the summit.



The open summit was a moonscape of sculpted snowdrifts.



By climbing a solid six-foot drift on the east side, next to the top of the Hale Brook Trail, I actually scored a view! The top of North Twin on the right, and a bit of South Twin on the left. When I first climbed Hale in 1978, it was an excellent viewpoint, taking in the Presidentials, the Willey Range, Zealand and Carrigain Notches, and the Twins. But 47 years of tree growth later, nada.




Drifts on the west side.


 

Snow dunes, as viewed from the top of Lend-a-Hand Trail.



Another very pleasant trail on Hale.



I made a short side excursion on Lend-a-Hand Trail, dropping down through deep, heavy snow to a shoulder with beautiful open fir forest.



Heading back up to the summit.



Descending the upper part of Firewarden's Trail.



A bonus winter view of the cliffs on Hale's 3740-ft. north spur peak, with Cherry Mountain in the distance.



Late afternoon light on the Presys.


 

Some of the best snowshoeing of the season. Whooping was heard in the forest.



Continuing down after exchanging greetings with a late-arriving upbound snowshoer.



Parting shot.