Tuesday, October 27, 2009

WHITE MOUNTAIN CROPWALK XXI: 10/25/09

Every fall since 1989, my good friend Mike Dickerman and I, along with several stalwart friends, have tramped through the mountains on the White Mountain "CROPWALK," a hike that raises funds for the anti-hunger programs of Church World Service (www.cropwalk.org). There are thousands of community CROPWALKs around the country, but as far as we know ours is the only one on mountain trails. Over the years our generous sponsors have donated over $46,000 to this worthy cause. Twenty-five percent of that goes to local food banks in Littleton and Lincoln.

Our CROPWALKs have taken us on many interesting routes, from the Mahoosuc Range in the north to the Appalachian Trail south of Mt. Moosilauke, with a number of treks through the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The original route for this year's ramble was to be a circuit around Flat Mountain Pond in the Sandwich Range Wilderness, from Sandwich Notch Road to Whiteface Intervale. However, several inches of rain the previous day (Saturday) made that route ill-advised, as there would be a major crossing of the Whiteface River that could be impassable near the end of the hike.

After some deliberation at a meeting spot in Center Sandwich, we opted for a different route in the same area: up and over Mt. Israel on the Wentworth and Mead Trails, then up the Black Mountain Pond Trail to the pond and back, and finally looping back via the Guinea Pond Trail and Sandwich Notch Road.

Around 8:45 am we gathered at the Mead Base trailhead off Sandwich Notch Road to head up the Wentworth Trail. This year's CROPWALKers included (L to R) Roger Doucette, Mike Dickerman, Thom Davis, Steve Martin, Dennis Lynch and Candace Morrison.



The Wentworth Trail starts out with a steady climb and never lets up very much: 1700 feet up in 2.1 miles to the 2630-ft. summit of Mt. Israel.


The little brook that this trail crosses partway up was running strong. Every stream crossing today required some deft maneuvering, and as expected the footways were very wet much of the way, with water often running down the trail.



A nice cascade beside the Wentworth Trail.



About halfway up the trail brushes by this huge old red oak.


The first outlook on the Wentworth Trail is near the crest of the ridge and looks south over Squam Lake, with Mt. Kearsarge on the horizon on the right.



After a short climb above the viewpoint, the trail rambles along the ridgetop of Mt. Israel through deep spruce forest.


The view of the Sandwich Range from Mt. Israel is second to none. You get a preview from the slightly lower SW summit.



The true (NE) summit is capped by a conical ledge. Thom, who had been partway up Israel a couple of years ago on the Mead Trail during a Pemi Valley Search & Rescue carryout, enjoyed his first visit to the summit.


As is often the case on the north-facing ledges, there was a chilly wind atop Israel.


But the views were spectacular on this sunny late October gem. In this picture on the skyline are (L to R): East Sleeper, West Spur of Whiteface, Mt. Whiteface, Mt. Passaconaway, Nanamocomuck Peak, and Wonalancet Hedgehog. In the foreground are the southern Flat Mtn. (L) and Young Mtn. (R).



To the NE you see Mt. Paugus (L) and Mt. Chocorua (R).

The Tripyramids and West Sleeper rise above the remote Flat Mountain Pond/Lost Pass region, with the northern Flat Mtn. on the L.

Close by to the NW is the massive sprawl of Sandwich Dome.



Under the double summit of Sandwich is a large trailless area of ridges and ravines.


On the left side of Sandwich are the two Black Mountains: the lower left one is 2732 ft., the broad ledgy spur to the right, which is traversed by the Algonquin Trail, is 3500 ft. high. Black Mountain Pond (not visible from here) is tucked into a hollow at the base of the 3500-ft. Black Mtn.


Thom, a geology professor at Bentley College specializing in glacial geology, pointed out a glacially polished outcrop of quartz at the summit of Israel.


Next we headed down the Mead Trail, which provided a moderate and pleasant descent, though very wet in places from the rain. This cascade was just below a brook crossing about halfway down.

Before heading up to Black Mountain Pond, we made a side trip east on the Guinea Pond Trail to Guinea Pond. We followed a bypass path to avoid two high-water crossings of the Beebe River, and used a flotsam-and-jetsam crossing found by Steve Martin to get over a tributary brook. Here is Dennis high-stepping across.


The shore of Guinea Pond was even wetter and swampier than usual, making it impossible to get near the water. But we still enjoyed a pretty view to Sandwich Dome from the end of the spur path.



Then we had to cross back over the tributary brook. Roger's turn...

Mike makes the final leap.


The Beebe River was flowing deep and fast at the start of the Black Mountain Pond Trail. It didn't look good for making it up to Black Mountain Pond, but a short distance east, where the Guinea Pond Trail crosses, the water was shallower and safe to wade. Candace watches Steve make his way across.



Mike wades through the chilly knee-deep water. Once we were all across, we made a short bushwack to the Black Mountain Pond Trail and headed north through the broad, wild upper basin of the Beebe River.


A half-mile up was another crossing of the Beebe, here more of a brook, but still running high. Three of us went out into a beautiful beaver meadow, seeking an easier crossing.

A great sitting rock rises in the meadow. It was tempting to stop here and just hang out in the sun.



The higher Black Mtn. rises north of the meadow.



Above the meadow the trail passes by several cascades on the Beebe - a very scenic stretch of trail.



At 1.9 miles from the Guinea Pond Trail, a side path leads left to little-known Mary Cary Falls.



In high water this is an impressive waterfall, where the river drops over big ledges in a hardwood forest setting.



The best view up to the falls is found by scrambling across to the west side of the brook at the base.



We continued another half-mile up the main trail, with one more brook crossing, to Black Mountain Pond. Six acres in area and 32 feet deep, this pond is crystal clear and rests in picturesque fashion at the base of ledgy Black Mountain. The former shelter on the south side was removed years ago due to overuse. Camping is allowed here, but not within 200 feet of the pond, and some areas are closed for revegetation.


Candace spotted this wet-weather waterfall on a cliff face on the flank of Black Mtn.


A small ledgy island on the SE shore provided a wonderful spot for a late lunch.

Mike surveys the Black Mountain Pond scene.



In the woods up behind the pond we gathered for our traditional group photo displaying the CROPWALK banner.


Heading back down the Black Mountain Pond Trail, there was nice understory color in the beech forest. Golden sun and golden leaves - the essence of October.




As we headed out on the Guinea Pond Trail, we saw this view over a beaver swamp to a shoulder of Sandwich Dome.


Some late foliage on a nearby hill.


Parts of the Guinea Pond Trail were flooded from the rain. Nearly this entire trail follows the bed of the old Beebe River logging railroad (1917-1942).


The final leg of our hike was a 3.3 mile jaunt along the quiet Sandwich Notch Road, and then 0.4 mile up the side road to Mead Base.



The Notch Road has great historic interest, with many signs of dozens of homesteads that were established here by the mid-1800s, only to be abandoned after the Civil War. This cellar hole is right next to the road. Along the road there were also cascades, a beaver meadow, and a crag called Pulpit Rock, where a preacher held forth on Sundays a century and a half ago. A nice conclusion to a great 15-mile hike. Thanks to all who participated in and sponsored the 2009 CROPWALK!

Friday, October 23, 2009

HEDGEHOG MOUNTAIN: 10/21/09

Late October: time to clean the drainages on the west loop of the UNH Trail on Hedgehog Mountain, which I "adopted" through a cooperative program of the Saco Ranger District (White Mountain National Forest) and the AMC. Joining me was good friend and stalwart trail worker Dave Stinson, who drove all the way up from Newmarket, NH to help out. The primary task for today was to hoe out the waterbars and drainage outflows, which were brimming with newly fallen leaves. We also did some intermittent brushing along the way.


Dave brought two long-handled garden hoes. I usually use a heavier hazel hoe, but decided to try the garden hoe out this time. It's alot easier on the back, especially when wearing a pack while cleaning waterbars. I remember trailwork guru Hal Graham of Trailwrights and Belknap Range Trail Tenders recommending a garden hoe for drainage cleaning at one of the annual Four Thousand Footer Cub dinners. After using one for a day, I think I'm a convert.

It was moose hunting season, so we wore our blaze orange in this moose-haunted region.



We know we're getting near the top of Hedgehog when we reach a side path to a ledge just right of the trail with a nice view of the Tripyramids over the Downes Brook valley.



Ledges on the final approach look north to Mt. Tremont/Owl Cliff (left) and Bartlett Haystack (right) with a socked-in Mt. Washington in the center distance and Carter Dome on the far right.

Near the summit we found a trailside clump of a lichen that I believe is Bighorn Cladonia (cladonia cornuta). It's rather stiff and prickly to the touch.


From the NW outlook at the summit Mt. Carrigain rises behind Green's Cliff.


The long E ridge of Mt. Hancock is well-displayed, revealing its two shadowed, south-facing glacial cirques.

After several hours of trail work, Dave takes a well-deserved break at the summit of Hedgehog. In the southern Whites it was a gorgeous late October day - sunny and comfortable.


When at the summit, I always drop carefully down some ledges to a lower perch with a wide-screen vista over the Oliverian Brook valley. Mt. Paugus is on the left.


On the right side of the valley are the eastern spurs of Mt. Passaconaway.



On the far right, the great looming hulk of Passaconaway itself.



From this angle you get a good profile on the ridge of Square Ledge (in foreground; Wonalancet Hedgehog in back), with its nubbly wooded summit on the right end.



Since it was early afternoon, we decided to do the scenic loop over the East Ledges. As the trail descends by rough zigzags off the summit, views open up from several ledges.



The trail ducks into the woods to skirt this rocky hogback.


Another in the series of vistas.


Hedgehog is a little peak at 2,532 ft., but it has plenty of rugged and rocky terrain.



Below the steep descent there's a pretty corridor through a spruce grove. The stretch of trail between the summit and East Ledges is wild and beautiful.



Dave emerges on the East Ledges in the shadow of the main summit.



The expanse of granite along the western part of the East Ledges is one of my favorite spots in the Whites. Many an extended break has been enjoyed here while gazing south into the Oliverian basin.



As the trail heads towards the eastern part of the East Ledges, it tightropes along a clifftop.


From the eastern ledge area Mt. Chocorua is a prominent feature of the view.


Down on the floor of the valley is a small beaver pond/meadow.


I enjoy visiting this remote wetland in winter. From one edge there's a view up to the East Ledges (right) and the Hedgehog summit (left).


From another spot Passaconaway reigns supreme.


Hikers ascending to the East Ledges see this sign shortly before emerging on the slabs.

This view to Bear Mountain (left), Table and Big Attitash Mtns. (center) and North Moat (right) is found at a corner 0.2 mile below the East Ledges.



Farther down there was still some late interior forest foliage.



As we descended to the floor of the valley on the east loop of UNH Trail, we heard two booming gunshots to the north, across the Kancamagus Highway. But no moose hunters were seen or heard on our side of the road. In any case, with the various hunting seasons now in progress, wearing blaze orange is highly recommended for the next six weeks at lower elevations and especially if bushwhacking.