Saturday, July 4, 2026

The Heart of The Kilkenny

The quiet Kilkenny region in the northern reaches of the White Mountain National Forest has long been a favorite haunt of mine. In fact, the Kilkenny Ridge Trail, with its miles of ridgeline walking, beautiful forests, two high country ponds, and several viewpoints might be my favorite trail in all the Whites. Although I had climbed Mt. Cabot last winter, it had been several years since I'd visited the more remote reaches of The Kilkenny on less-traveled trails. On this partly sunny early summer day I opted for an 11-mile loop that included both Kilback and Unknown Ponds and a side trip to an off-trail viewpoint, with a two-mile road walk linking trailheads at the end.
 
I started from the trailhead for Mill Brook Trail at the Berlin Fish Hatchery.




 
This is a beautiful, mellow approach into The Kilkenny, and the trail is in tip-top shape thanks to the hard work of its adopters, Jennifer and Kevin Stetson. They also maintain the Kilkenny Ridge Trail from Rogers Ledge to Unknown Pond. Thank you!!




In its first two miles Mill Brook Trail follows the rushing waters of Cold Brook. The trail used to be a through route to the Mill Brook valley and Mill Brook Rd. on the NW side of the ridge, but the section of trail on that side has been closed for many years. It really should be renamed Cold Brook Trail but the Mill Brook Trail name endures. 




 
Some parts of the valley have luxuriant undergrowth.



 
 
One of many beautiful scenes along the brook.





The trail leaves the brook and climbs onto a lush plateau of hardwood and birch.



 

 At 3.6 miles, after a gentle descent, Mill Brook Trail meets Kilkenny Ridge Trail deep in the Kilkenny wilds.









I made a short side trip to the north to check out Rogers Ledge Tentsite, which has four tents pads.




 
A wonderfully secluded place to camp.
 



 
Just south of the Mill Brook Trail junction, Kilkenny Ridge Trail crosses this small brook, which is the water source for the tentsite. 





This high plateau, at ~2,500 ft., has a supreme feeling of remoteness.
 



 

Kilkenny Ridge Trail passes by some wild spruce wetlands. 

 

 

 

 

Over the past several years, the trails folks from the Androscoggin Ranger District and volunteers from the Cohos Trail Association have been working on replacing the old, rotted bog bridges in this wet area. Much appreciated! 




 
A half-mile from the Mill Brook Trail junction I had my first glimpse of Kilback Pond, one of my favorite spots in The Kilkenny.



This small but picturesque pond enjoys a serene setting on the plateau between Unknown Pond Ridge (seen in this view) and Rogers Ledge. Birds were singing as I sat on a rock for lunch: Swamp Sparrows, Common Yellowthroats and White-throated Sparrows.



More bog bridges.



Another angle on the pond.





During the week after my hike, more bog bridges were added here to complete this crossing alongside a beaver dam.


 
 
 
A peek back at the granite face of Rogers Ledge.


 

 

 

 

This set of old bog bridges across a flooded area just west of Kilback Pond will be replaced later this season.
 




The crossing of the single log portion was slow and sketchy for me while carrying a big pack. It didn't help that the water was several feet deep on either side.



 
Gorgeous woods approaching the climb up to the crest of Unknown Pond Ridge.





The 700-ft. climb up Unknown Pond Ridge is a good workout, with abundant fern growth along the way.





This section of trail leads through a vast birch forest that seeded in after a big 1903 fire.
 



 
Nearing the crest of Unknown Pond Ridge.

 

 

 

After entering conifer woods on the crest, I bushwhacked to a northern spur of Unknown Pond Ridge. 





A ragged set of cliffs offers a wide view out to the Pliny, Presidential, Crescent and Carter Ranges.






Closer look at the Plinys and Presidentials.






Nearby, there is a lovely view of Unknown Pond resting peacefully at the base of The Horn.






Zoom on Unknown Pond.





The wild, trailless Pilot Range trails off to the NW.
 


 

 

Looking SE to other peaks on Unknown Pond Ridge. 

 

 

 

A birch dance troupe performs in a fern glade behind the cliffs. 

 

 

 

Another peek at Rogers Ledge.

 




Junction by Unknown Pond.




 
The iconic image of Unknown Pond and The Horn.





Unknown Pond's spruce-girt shores.
 



There are five tent pads at Unknown Pond Tentsite. The area along the shore is a revegetation area and is closed to camping,




Not far down from the campsite, Unknown Pond Trail passes through a meadow-like area with a view of the Presidentials.
 
 


An overgrown section of trail. Fern growth is prolific in The Kilkenny.





A lovely section of trail.




 
Unknown Pond Brook gains strength as it flows down the valley. In the span of 0.2 mile, the trail makes two crossings of this brook and one of a tributary.



 
 
 
The Androscoggin District trails folks have been working on improvements  along muddy sections of the trail.





 
Near the bottom of Unknown Pond Trail the Androscoggin District trails folks have also made a good relocation around a section of trail that had been flooded by a misbehaving brook.
 




A highlight of the two-mile walk on York Pond Rd. was this view of North Weeks across York Pond.


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