Friday, July 16, 2021

Cedar Brook Loop, with a Side of Slide: 7/15/21


On a partly sunny, hot and humid day I took a long tour through the south-central part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, starting at the Hancock Overlook trailhead at the hairpin turn on the Kanc Highway, and ending at the Lincoln Woods trailhead, where Carol kindly picked me up and shuttled me back to my car. My route followed the Hancock Notch Trail, Cedar Brook Trail and Pemi East Side Trail. The highlight of the trip was a bushwhack most of the way up and back down the big Cedar Brook Slide on the west side of Hancock's north ridge. In 14 miles, 12 1/2 of them on-trail, I did not see another hiker, only a couple of campers at the Franconia Brook Campsite.

Even the approach to the Hancocks was quiet with a 7 am start. At 1.3 miles on the Hancock Notch Trail there's a nice outlook over the North Fork of Hancock Branch to a ridge of Mt. Hitchcock.



A familiar junction for Hancock hikers.



Along the relocation done on Cedar Brook Trail by the WMNF Pemi District trail crew a few years ago, now well worn-in. Four of the five crossings of the North Fork are now bypassed. I first walked this relo shortly after it was done, when it was soft and spongy.




At the junction of Cedar Brook Trail (left) and Hancock Loop Trail (right), the difference in usage level is notable.



Beyond the Hancock Loop junction, the Cedar Brook Trail is a walk on the wild side as it ascends to the broad pass between Mt. Hitchcock and North Hancock. Kudos to new trail adopter Rebecca Sperry, who has done much brushing work on the trail this summer, carrying on after longtime Cedar Brook Trail adopters John Gutowski and June Rogier retired. This is a long and remote trail, challenging to maintain.




Wild spruce forest approaching the Pemi Wilderness boundary at the height-of-land.



 
An Adirondack-style mudhole just north of the height-of-land.





Descending north into the Pemi, the trail is wet and rough for a stretch, reminiscent of the trails heading out to Mt. Isolation.




This blowdown series a bit farther down will need a hearty team to tackle it.




High in the valley the trail crosses a headwater stream of Cedar Brook, and from here on down the walking is wonderfully good on old tote roads, and in the lower 1.4 miles, on a logging railroad grade.



This tributary is informally named Slide Brook, as it flows down from the big slide on the west flank of Hancock's north ridge. That name appeared in the Cedar Brook Trail description in the AMC White Mountain Guide from the late 1940s through the mid-1970s.



The first half of the bushwhack to the bottom of the slide was through fairly open woods, while the second half was thicker but not terrible.



Emerging at the bottom of the slide, with the top glimpsed far above.



Not far up I came to a severely gouged section referred to as the "half pipe" in a couple of trip reports. This slide originally came down during a massive rainstorm in early November 1927. It was "refreshed" during the deluge of Tropical Storm Irene in August 2011, when this gouging presumably took place. Here I scrambled up onto the upper right edge where the footing was more stable.




Red rocks up on the edge.



Peering down into the trough. Yikes!



In this view the trough carved by Irene is on the right and the older slide track is on the left. Quite a contrast from when some friends and I climbed this slide in 1995 en route to Northwest Hancock and then North Hancock.



First views back to Mts. Flume and Liberty.




Heading up the widest expanse of the slide.



A broad-spreading white pine has created its own micro-habitat.



Expanding views, now taking in Mt. Hitchcock and all the Franconia Ridge peaks.



I bypassed this trough through the island of trees on the right.




Giant chockstone.



Here the older middle swath of the slide is revegetating with tiny balsam firs, with gouges from Irene on either side.



Breaking out onto the most open part of the upper slide.




Rocky chaos from Irene.




Most of the way up the slide, at 3440 ft., I found a good rock seat (bottom of photo) and took an hour-long break to savor the scene and the views.



Peering down the slide.



Big view over some remote country. Mt. Hitchcock and North Hitchcock rise beyond the Cedar Brook valley, with Mt. Moosilauke in the distance. Lower Franconia Range to the right.






Mts. Lincoln and Lafayette behind Owl's Head.




Irene gouging to my left...




...and to my right.



Back at the bottom of the slide, after a slow, careful descent on the loose rock, I could look back and see where I was near the top.


Continuing down Cedar Brook Trail from Slide Brook, I soon passed the site of Camp 24A of the East Branch & Lincoln Railroad, a small mountain camp marked by this ferny clearing a short distance off the trail.




Great trail walking down the valley on old tote roads.




This sled runner sticks up from the ground right on the trail.




A bit farther down the valley the trail edges precariously across this undercut washout. Caution advised! I believe a short relocation will be done here.




Looking up Cedar Brook from the washout. Irene really tore down through this valley.



Not far below the washout, the trail drops down to the old railroad grade and soon comes to the opening in the woods that was the site of Camp 24. This was a very large camp used by Parker-Young Company in the 1930s and 1940s as a base for logging in the expansive Cedar Brook valley - the last major timber cut in the Pemi.




There are quite a few artifacts in this area, though it seemed there are fewer than the last time I came through here in 2012. As always, a reminder that these are protected by federal law and should not be removed or disturbed.



Part of an old lantern.



After another  mile of easy railroad grade walking, I came to the junction with the Pemi East Side Trail, which was originally a truck road built in the 1940s by Parker-Young Co. for hauling timber. Today the 2.3 mile section from here to Franconia Brook Campsite is a wonderful, mellow woods walk through the East Branch valley.




Down the valley a ways I like to make my way off-trail to this view of Bondcliff and its pointy south spur peak.



Towards the west end of this trail section are some beautiful ledge slabs fringing the river.



There are several colonies of yellow avens on the ledges, with their flowers gone by. Could they be mountain avens?




More ledges, illuminated by the evening sun.




The "Ranger's Pool" on the East Branch, another highlight on a trek with a great variety of wilderness scenery.



 


Sunday, July 11, 2021

Upper Greeley Pond: 7/11/21


A quick morning hike on the Greeley Ponds Trail into Mad River Notch.

The WMNF Pemi District trail crew recently built some new bog bridges along a muddy section of the trail. Nice work!



Beavers have been at work, too!




Looking across the pond at the NE cliffs of East Osceola.




Steep ridges.




Slides!




Looking north along the pond.




Ran into talented photographer Bob Kozlow, who was setting up for a shot as I headed out. Though I saw no one on the 1.7 mile hike into the principal pond viewpoint, I counted 31 hikers on the return trip, mostly headed for the Osceolas, I presumed. The morning's bird tally was 14 species, all by ear except for a trio of Cedar Waxwings seen at the pond.



 

Thursday, July 8, 2021

Tom-Field-Avalon: 7/7/21


It had been quite a few years since I'd hiked Mt. Tom and Mt. Field in the summer. All of my recent visits had been in winter, when deep snowpack opens good views on these wooded peaks. I was curious to see what views are available in summer.

Parking at the Avalon trailhead was fairly full when I arrived for a late morning start, but the trails were not overly busy. Saw maybe two dozen hikers through the day. The water was low at the first crossing of Crawford Brook on the Avalon Trail.
 
 


A short side path leads down to this view of a flume and cascade. This is above the loop that leads to Beecher and Pearl Cascades.




A few years ago the AMC trail crew relocated the beginning of the A-Z Trail, moving it away from a steep down-and-up traverse of a gully that was especially difficult in winter. Impressive sidecut work is seen along the relo.




Lush forest and an old yellow birch along the A-Z Trail as it ascends the Crawford Brook valley.




Stairway on the valley headwall.




A new post for the Mt. Tom Spur sign.



Approaching the summit, the trail splits. The main trail bears left to the summit cairn. The right fork leads 70 yards to a small clearing where for a number of years a "fir wave" blowdown patch had provided good views of the Presidentials, Crawford Notch and the eastern Pemi Wilderness.



It was a bit shocking to see that in summer the views here are now in the past tense.


View from the same spot in January 2018.



This look at nearby Mt. Field is the best summer view available at this point. Barring a major blowdown event, in a few more years Tom will join Hale among the ranks of completely viewless summits.



The Tom summit cairn.



Same situation at a another former fir wave viewpoint that looked west to the Bond-Twin-Zealand region.




Looking for views, I did a little fern-whacking...




...out to a fir wave area.



Here was a nice view of South and North Twin, a good spot for a late lunch break.




On to Mt. Field.



This section of the Willey Range Trail is a longtime favorite of mine, ascending gradually through a fine ridgetop balsam forest.



Just before the summit of Field there's a view to the Bond-Twin Range. It's superb in winter, and still fairly good in summer, though partly restricted.



I was pleased to see that the NE view on the other side of the summit is good in summer as well as winter. By this point the distant views had become hazed in, but there was still a good look down at the Mount Washington Hotel.


Field summit cairn.




From a fir wave near the summit I found a nice if hazy vista across the eastern Pemi Wilderness to Mt. Carrigain and Mt. Hancock. Here I was lucky enough to get a good look at a Black-Backed Woodpecker, an uncommon northern specialty.




Typical terrain on the descent from Mt. Field to Mt. Avalon on the Avalon Trail.




Ledge scramble on the spur to Mt. Avalon.



Mt. Willey and Mt. Field, looming.




Summit rocks on Avalon. Trees are starting to obscure the views here.



A ledge on the south side of the summit now offers the best view into Crawford Notch.



Peering down to the AMC Highland Center and Saco Lake.




Holy moly, the trail below Mt. Avalon is gnarly. The loop over Mts. Tom, Field and Avalon is 7.4 miles with 2900 ft. of elevation gain.