WILD RIVER: 11/10/09

After two years away from the beautiful Wild River Valley, long one of my favorite White Mountain haunts, I was anxious for a visit. John Compton and I agreed to undertake a bushwhack to a ledge on a nameless Wild River ridge that I had visited back in 1996. I knew this spot had a phenomenal view of the Carter-Moriah Range.

Adding much interest to the planned trek was the October publication of a fascinating new history of the Wild River Valley. Written by Maine environmentalist and naturalist Dean Bennett, Nature and Renewal: Wild River Valley & Beyond tells the story of the valley's decimation by logging in the 1890s and fire in 1903, then its reforestation and eventual designation as the newest Wilderness area in the White Mountains in 2006.


Mentioned in this book are two features of this expansive valley - one natural and one historic - that happened to be near our bushwhack route. The first was a giant hemlock that survived the logging and fire, the second was a remnant piece of logging railroad, complete with rusting rails and rotting ties, that lies mostly forgotten in a brookbed.

We parked at the end of the 5 1/2 mile Wild River Road, a quiet and lonely place in November. No hikers' cars were there; the only people around were two campers in a campground lean-to. We set off on the Basin Trail, and soon undertook what proved to be a futile search for a spur line of the Wild River logging railroad (1890-1903). The abandoned piece of track was reported to be on a spur that extended a short distance into the Blue Brook valley, but we couldn't find a definitive railroad grade in the area we were searching.

We had better luck finding the giant old hemlock, whose survival over several centuries is a central theme in Dean Bennett's Wild River book. It is located off-trail not too far from the Basin Trail.



Bennett determined that this tree has a diameter of 3 1/2 feet at breast height, and that it could be as much as 300 years old. It was not discovered until 1999, when a Forest Service forester was inventorying timber in the area.



Nearby was another hemlock that was almost as impressive. These ancient trees are now protected within the Wilderness area.


After admiring these forest giants, we set off on the bushwhack to the view ledge. Along the way we found this pretty gorge and cascade on a tributary of Blue Brook.


Farther upstream the brook's ledges were lushly carpeted in moss.


The whack was mostly through hardwood forest, generally good going but with plenty of beech saplings (sons-of-beeches, we call them, when they slap you in the face).



When we got to the ledge, we saw that the day's promised sun was not about to materialize. However, the cloud deck was very high, allowing for fine views of the Carter-Moriah Range to the west across the broad expanse of the Wild River Valley. The whole sweep of the ridge was revealed here - from Carter Dome's Rainbow Ridge on the south end to Howe Peak, east of Shelburne Moriah, on the north end. In this photo all of the high Carters are seen.


A zoom on Rainbow Ridge, Carter Dome and Mt. Hight, which has a particularly sharp aspect from this angle.

The east side of the Carter Range is wild, remote and rugged country, notable for its l-o-n-g valleys and ridges. This view looks into the trailless four-mile-long valley of Cypress Brook, which has two partly-formed glacial cirques at its head, one on either side of South Carter.



The three Moriahs (L to R): Mt. Moriah, with its long, ledgy SE ridge; Middle Moriah; and rocky, lumpy Shelburne Moriah.


From the ledge you look straight into the valley of Moriah Brook, which is traversed by one of the most attractive trails in the Whites.


John, bedecked in his best blaze orange, takes a last look at the view after our 1 1/2 hour sojourn.


We whacked back down to the Wild River, where shoreside rocks opened a view upstream to Middle Carter.


The Wild River rivals the East Branch of the Pemigewasset, in the Pemigewasset Wilderness, as a premier backcountry river. The Wild River Wilderness itself is sort of an eastern version of the Pemi, on a smaller scale.


We made a short side trip to check out the suspension footbridge over the river at the start of the Moriah Brook Trail. (This bridge is just outside the Wilderness boundary.)


With plenty of daylight left, we headed back into the leafless woods in search of the old railroad track. After some searching, we found it, though not quite where we expected it to be. As noted in the book (a picture of this is on the cover), the section was about 40 feet long and resting in a brookbed.



John takes a closer look at this neat piece of White Mountain logging history.


Back at the Wild River Campground, we saw that the Blue Brook Shelter, which had been dismantled and removed from its site up on the Black Angel Trail, has been reassembled down here and will be open for use by car campers at the campground.



We enjoyed a marvelous and leisurely day exploring one small area of the Wild River Valley. If the snow holds off and the road stays open, perhaps one more trip there will be in the cards for this year.

KILKENNY BIRCH RAMBLE: 11/4/09

After last week's relaxing trek to "Unknown Ledge," the sweet solitude and gleaming birch glades of The Kilkenny lured John Compton and me back for an encore journey. This time we would explore the other side of the Unknown Pond Brook valley, visiting three small ponds and a nameless set of cliffs on the SE ridge of The Horn.

We hiked partway up the Unknown Pond Trail from York Pond Road, following the cheerful tumblings of Unknown Pond Brook.



In one spot numerous birch trunks had toppled across the brook - felled by the 1998 ice storm?


The first trail crossing of the brook.


We whacked up to a newly recreated beaver pond, with an inviting shoreline lit up in the sun.


John checks out the zig-zag beaver dam.


We passed by the lodge, but didn't knock to see if anyone was home.

A view of Unknown Pond Ridge from the west side of the pond.


John, blazed in orange (muzzleloader season was on), admires the Kilkenny scenery.


A well-worn beaver trail led us up and over to a higher pond.

Another beauty with an open shoreline.


Those busy beavers had almost felled this good-sized birch.


This pond extended a ways to the south.


Then we set off on our whack up the ridge to the cliffs, through birches...


...and more birches...

...and......a definite trend here, thanks to the 30,000-acre fire in 1903 that ended the intensive logging era in The Kilkenny. Such beauty sprung from widespread devastation.

Can't really call this bushwhacking. In summer, though, the ferns would be waist or even chest-high.


Long corridors looking across the slope.

Eventually the bluff that held our cliffs could be seen rising ahead.


The approach required a flanking action to the right.


Climbing steeply up to the blufftop, we enjoyed a Mahoosucs view through the trees.

To our surprise, the approach to the clifftop didn't become gnarly until the last few yards. From last week's ledge, and from the road this morning, we had spotted a jutting ledge here and had hoped for at least a small open perch. Our alleged viewspot turned out to be a separate rock tower, a gendarme that had split off from the main cliff.



So we had to work hard for our views, picking them up in segments from openings between the trees. From this spot we looked out at the Moriahs beyond Black Crescent Mountain and the Upper Ammonoosuc lowlands. The water on the left is the pond at Godfrey Dam. In the foreground is the ridge we ascended.

The main and middle summits of Unknown Pond Ridge, seen across the Unknown Pond Brook valley.



The middle and south peaks of Unknown Pond Ridge; Baldpate and Old Speck in the distance.


We pushed through clinging spruces to glean this vista of North Weeks and the shrouded, rime-frosted Presidentials.



Leaving the bluff, we headed north across the birch-clad slope....



...and eventually came to a small pond, unnamed on maps, at the foot of The Horn.


In AMC White Mountain Guides from the 1970s, this pond was mentioned as part of a bushwhack route to the then-trailless Horn. The guide gave the local name as "Bishop's Pond."


One of the greatest enthusiasts of The Kilkenny was the Rt. Rev. Robert McConnell Hatch, an Epsicopal Bishop from Connecticut and later Massachusetts, who roamed this area frequently with his friend Jack Farr. For the December 1956 issue of Appalachia, Bishop Hatch wrote a lyrical essay, "A Lean-To in the Mountains," about an exploration he and his friend made in search of a small, remote pond at the base of a ledge-capped peak. When they at last reached their objective, they "stood motionless and gazed at the pond. For a long time neither of us could speak, and when we finally did it was in a whisper. Never in our lives had we been in a place of such wild and breath-taking beauty."

In his honor, the tiny tarn was unofficially named the "Bishop's Pond." Bishop Hatch, by all accounts a beloved figure, passed away last summer at the age of 99.



Sunlit rocks on the northeast shore beckoned for a late lunch break.


The sun was just over the shoulder of The Horn; only when a cloud rolled in could we see the view of the peak looming above the pond.




In mid-afternoon we took our leave of this magical place and followed the little outlet brook down through the birches.



Eventually we came out by one of the beaver ponds on the floor of the valley - the first pond we had visited in the morning.


Back on the Unknown Pond Trail, we made a short detour to look at a cascade on Unknown Pond Brook.


At the crossing of the tributary brook, there was another small waterfall.

Then we walked the two miles back out on the trail, concluding another entrancing day in The Kilkenny.

BROWN BROOK MARSHES: 11/3/09

The Three Ponds area in the southwestern White Mountains is one of the most interesting wild nooks in the region. Numerous ponds and wetlands are tucked into a broad upland valley between the high, wooded crests of Carr Mountain and Mt. Kineo. There are actually two drainages in the valley - Sucker Brook on the west side, traversed by the Three Ponds Trail and holding Foxglove Pond and the Upper, Middle and Lower Ponds; and Brown Brook and the Mt. Kineo Trail on the east side, where a long string of swamps and marshes forms one of the largest wetland complexes in the Whites.

Late fall is a favorite time to visit the expansive hardwood forests of this valley. For a not-very-long trek you are rewarded with some fine scenery in a peaceful and remote setting. For this leisurely exploration I opted for the Brown Brook Marshes on the east side of the basin. Starting from the Three Ponds Trail off Stinson Lake Road, I soon turned right on the Mt. Kineo Trail.



For a mile this is a narrow footway rolling through a fine open hardwood forest along the flank of Black Hill.



Where it turns left onto an older route of the trail, it has been significantly widened the last two years for snowmobiling.



After a half-mile the snowmobile trail goes left on a relocation, while the hiking trail continues ahead past some boulders.

Just beyond this split is a pretty cascade and pool on Brown Brook.


Not far above the cascade, the Mt. Kineo Trail crosses the brook (where the snowmobile trail rejoins and Donkey Hill Cutoff goes left) and soon comes beside the first of the Brown Brook Marshes.
As the trail proceeds north in this flat, wet area, other wetlands can be visited with short forays off-trail to the left. This marsh is overlooked by a northern spur of Carr Mountain.


The trail crosses a tributary brook by this wild wetland.

Looking across to the north ridge of Carr.


Where the trail turns up to climb to the crest of Mt. Kineo, I continued ahead, whacking through open hardwoods. My objective was a small cliff I had once visited on the lower slope of Mt. Kineo. As I remembered, above the floor of the valley it was a short bushwhack, but quite difficult with steep, rough terrain and treacherous footing.


After some careful traversing I found the partly open spot atop the cliff, with its prize view of Carr Mountain presiding above the tawny marshes and the serpentine Brown Brook.


From another spot I could see farther down the chain of wetlands.


I caught a peek at the pointy little cliff, which I had originally spotted from the summit of Carr years ago.



The 3453-ft. Carr is an impressive sprawling mountain. Over the years I've enjoyed several interesting explorations along its eight-mile ridgecrest, which is trailless except where the Carr Mountain Trail runs over the summit and Rattlesnake Mountain Trail climbs to its low southern end.


Carr's long northern ridgecrest.

The bushwhack to get down off the clifftop was just as tricky as the way up, albeit by a different route.


On the floor of the valley, I emerged in a beautiful, park-like hardwood flat. Whitcher Hill can be seen through the trees.

I whacked over to the northernmost Brown Brook wetland, a large open meadow.



Back into the open hardwoods, temporarily lit up in the November sun.



I whacked back to the south along the base of Mt. Kineo. The last time I made this traverse, I once glanced upslope and saw a fisher bounding along in the opposite direction.

Back on the Mt. Kineo Trail, I found this view of Whitcher Hill a few yards off to the side.

Where the trail comes beside the southernmost marsh, a serene view of meandering Brown Brook.

I suspect I'll be returning to this area before the snow (and the snowmobiles) starts to fly, to visit the Three Ponds or perhaps explore up on the rugged slopes of little Black Hill.

"UNKNOWN LEDGE" IN THE KILKENNY: 10/29/09

The Kilkenny region in the White Mountains has a strong appeal to hikers who like solitude with their scenery. Beautiful woods (including some of the most expansive birch forests anywhere), lightly trodden trails and several fine viewpoints draw Kilkenny devotees back again and again.

This week I needed to scratch the "Kilkenny itch," and when I proposed a journey to an elusive ledge on the SW flank of "Unknown Pond Ridge," fellow bushwhacking enthusiasts John Compton and Chris Whiton postponed plans for another exploration to come and check this spot out.

This was to be a leisurely day, with fairly short mileage and mostly open whacking through hardwood and birch. After meeting at Appalachia in Randolph, we carpooled for the drive up through downtown Berlin, out Route 110, and down York Pond Road to the fish hatchery and the Unknown Pond Trail parking area near the end of the road. At 10:00 we set out on the Unknown Pond Trail. After an initial half-mile along the grade of the 1890s Upper Ammonoosuc logging railroad, we climbed gradually up the valley of Unknown Pond Brook.


With the leaves down, we had many views of this pretty, cascading stream.




Partway up the valley we headed into the open hardwoods, which became somewhat brushy after the 1998 ice storm opened the canopy. Along the way there was abundant moose sign.



This was very pleasant post-foliage whacking.


Higher up we entered the fabled Kilkenny birches, which filled in these clear-cut slopes after 30,000 acres were burned in a 1903 fire.



The summer's fallen ferns made for comfortable seating during a break.


Onward and upward, through still more birch glades.


We crossed an interesting jumble of rocks shortly before we plunged into the conifers in search of the view ledge. On the first of three late 1990s snowshoe journeys along this "Unknown Pond Ridge," I failed in my attempt to find this ledge, though I did hit other viewpoints higher up. On two subsequent winter treks, one with Creston Ruiter and another with Cath Goodwin, we found the ledge, but only after considerable searching through rather steep, thick and rough terrain.


This time, we found the ledge fairly quickly, and 2 1/2 hours after we left the trailhead we emerged on its sloping granite expanse.


The morning's clouds were, as predicted, breaking up, bringing us an increasingly sunny day. It took a while for the fog to burn off the Presidentials and Carters, seen in the distance beyond the Crescent Range. What a great slab to hang out on in the warm October sun!


Close by to the west we enjoyed a unique perspective on Mt. Cabot, The Bulge and The Horn.



Cabot's bulk is impressive from this angle.

Chris peers over the edge with The Bulge and Horn above. The slab's grainy granite gave good grip for boots.


A zoom on The Horn, its slopes cloaked in endless birch forest. With binoculars we could spot the table-flat ledge that crowns the summit.


We had an unusual vista of Willard Notch to the SW: North Weeks on the L, South Terrace on the R, the long east ridge of Mt. Waumbek in the back.



The distinctive profile of North Weeks.



The Carters and Presys emerged.


Zoom on the Presidentials, rising beyond the vast basin of the Upper Ammonoosuc River.


Two beaver ponds could be seen in the valley below.



At the back edge of the ledge was a deep crevice. A bad place to drop a camera.


From the edge of the ledge you could peer down to the woods below. Chris made his way down there and said the massive slab was pretty impressive to look up at.



After a blissful 2 1/2 hours in the sun, we headed back into the woods for the descent. John paused to get a picture looking back up the birch-lined slope.


Back down on the Unknown Pond Trail, we made a couple of very short off-trail forays to admire some cascades.


This lovely cascade and waterslide was an unexpected bonus.


John aptly dubbed the lower part a "sheet cascade," where the water slides over a nicely jointed granite slab.


Heading out along the old logging railroad grade on the lower part of the trail. The maps I've seen of the Upper Ammonoosuc RR don't show the locations of the logging camps, but they must be out here somewhere.


On York Pond Road near the trailhead we had a view back up to the south end of Unknown Pond Ridge. Our ledge is just visible on the upper left slope. It was a relaxing and rewarding Kilkenny journey.

WHITE MOUNTAIN CROPWALK XXI: 10/25/09

Every fall since 1989, my good friend Mike Dickerman and I, along with several stalwart friends, have tramped through the mountains on the White Mountain "CROPWALK," a hike that raises funds for the anti-hunger programs of Church World Service (www.cropwalk.org). There are thousands of community CROPWALKs around the country, but as far as we know ours is the only one on mountain trails. Over the years our generous sponsors have donated over $46,000 to this worthy cause. Twenty-five percent of that goes to local food banks in Littleton and Lincoln.

Our CROPWALKs have taken us on many interesting routes, from the Mahoosuc Range in the north to the Appalachian Trail south of Mt. Moosilauke, with a number of treks through the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The original route for this year's ramble was to be a circuit around Flat Mountain Pond in the Sandwich Range Wilderness, from Sandwich Notch Road to Whiteface Intervale. However, several inches of rain the previous day (Saturday) made that route ill-advised, as there would be a major crossing of the Whiteface River that could be impassable near the end of the hike.

After some deliberation at a meeting spot in Center Sandwich, we opted for a different route in the same area: up and over Mt. Israel on the Wentworth and Mead Trails, then up the Black Mountain Pond Trail to the pond and back, and finally looping back via the Guinea Pond Trail and Sandwich Notch Road.

Around 8:45 am we gathered at the Mead Base trailhead off Sandwich Notch Road to head up the Wentworth Trail. This year's CROPWALKers included (L to R) Roger Doucette, Mike Dickerman, Thom Davis, Steve Martin, Dennis Lynch and Candace Morrison.



The Wentworth Trail starts out with a steady climb and never lets up very much: 1700 feet up in 2.1 miles to the 2630-ft. summit of Mt. Israel.


The little brook that this trail crosses partway up was running strong. Every stream crossing today required some deft maneuvering, and as expected the footways were very wet much of the way, with water often running down the trail.



A nice cascade beside the Wentworth Trail.



About halfway up the trail brushes by this huge old red oak.


The first outlook on the Wentworth Trail is near the crest of the ridge and looks south over Squam Lake, with Mt. Kearsarge on the horizon on the right.



After a short climb above the viewpoint, the trail rambles along the ridgetop of Mt. Israel through deep spruce forest.


The view of the Sandwich Range from Mt. Israel is second to none. You get a preview from the slightly lower SW summit.



The true (NE) summit is capped by a conical ledge. Thom, who had been partway up Israel a couple of years ago on the Mead Trail during a Pemi Valley Search & Rescue carryout, enjoyed his first visit to the summit.


As is often the case on the north-facing ledges, there was a chilly wind atop Israel.


But the views were spectacular on this sunny late October gem. In this picture on the skyline are (L to R): East Sleeper, West Spur of Whiteface, Mt. Whiteface, Mt. Passaconaway, Nanamocomuck Peak, and Wonalancet Hedgehog. In the foreground are the southern Flat Mtn. (L) and Young Mtn. (R).



To the NE you see Mt. Paugus (L) and Mt. Chocorua (R).

The Tripyramids and West Sleeper rise above the remote Flat Mountain Pond/Lost Pass region, with the northern Flat Mtn. on the L.

Close by to the NW is the massive sprawl of Sandwich Dome.



Under the double summit of Sandwich is a large trailless area of ridges and ravines.


On the left side of Sandwich are the two Black Mountains: the lower left one is 2732 ft., the broad ledgy spur to the right, which is traversed by the Algonquin Trail, is 3500 ft. high. Black Mountain Pond (not visible from here) is tucked into a hollow at the base of the 3500-ft. Black Mtn.


Thom, a geology professor at Bentley College specializing in glacial geology, pointed out a glacially polished outcrop of quartz at the summit of Israel.


Next we headed down the Mead Trail, which provided a moderate and pleasant descent, though very wet in places from the rain. This cascade was just below a brook crossing about halfway down.

Before heading up to Black Mountain Pond, we made a side trip east on the Guinea Pond Trail to Guinea Pond. We followed a bypass path to avoid two high-water crossings of the Beebe River, and used a flotsam-and-jetsam crossing found by Steve Martin to get over a tributary brook. Here is Dennis high-stepping across.


The shore of Guinea Pond was even wetter and swampier than usual, making it impossible to get near the water. But we still enjoyed a pretty view to Sandwich Dome from the end of the spur path.



Then we had to cross back over the tributary brook. Roger's turn...

Mike makes the final leap.


The Beebe River was flowing deep and fast at the start of the Black Mountain Pond Trail. It didn't look good for making it up to Black Mountain Pond, but a short distance east, where the Guinea Pond Trail crosses, the water was shallower and safe to wade. Candace watches Steve make his way across.



Mike wades through the chilly knee-deep water. Once we were all across, we made a short bushwack to the Black Mountain Pond Trail and headed north through the broad, wild upper basin of the Beebe River.


A half-mile up was another crossing of the Beebe, here more of a brook, but still running high. Three of us went out into a beautiful beaver meadow, seeking an easier crossing.

A great sitting rock rises in the meadow. It was tempting to stop here and just hang out in the sun.



The higher Black Mtn. rises north of the meadow.



Above the meadow the trail passes by several cascades on the Beebe - a very scenic stretch of trail.



At 1.9 miles from the Guinea Pond Trail, a side path leads left to little-known Mary Cary Falls.



In high water this is an impressive waterfall, where the river drops over big ledges in a hardwood forest setting.



The best view up to the falls is found by scrambling across to the west side of the brook at the base.



We continued another half-mile up the main trail, with one more brook crossing, to Black Mountain Pond. Six acres in area and 32 feet deep, this pond is crystal clear and rests in picturesque fashion at the base of ledgy Black Mountain. The former shelter on the south side was removed years ago due to overuse. Camping is allowed here, but not within 200 feet of the pond, and some areas are closed for revegetation.


Candace spotted this wet-weather waterfall on a cliff face on the flank of Black Mtn.


A small ledgy island on the SE shore provided a wonderful spot for a late lunch.

Mike surveys the Black Mountain Pond scene.



In the woods up behind the pond we gathered for our traditional group photo displaying the CROPWALK banner.


Heading back down the Black Mountain Pond Trail, there was nice understory color in the beech forest. Golden sun and golden leaves - the essence of October.




As we headed out on the Guinea Pond Trail, we saw this view over a beaver swamp to a shoulder of Sandwich Dome.


Some late foliage on a nearby hill.


Parts of the Guinea Pond Trail were flooded from the rain. Nearly this entire trail follows the bed of the old Beebe River logging railroad (1917-1942).


The final leg of our hike was a 3.3 mile jaunt along the quiet Sandwich Notch Road, and then 0.4 mile up the side road to Mead Base.



The Notch Road has great historic interest, with many signs of dozens of homesteads that were established here by the mid-1800s, only to be abandoned after the Civil War. This cellar hole is right next to the road. Along the road there were also cascades, a beaver meadow, and a crag called Pulpit Rock, where a preacher held forth on Sundays a century and a half ago. A nice conclusion to a great 15-mile hike. Thanks to all who participated in and sponsored the 2009 CROPWALK!

HEDGEHOG MOUNTAIN: 10/21/09

Late October: time to clean the drainages on the west loop of the UNH Trail on Hedgehog Mountain, which I "adopted" through a cooperative program of the Saco Ranger District (White Mountain National Forest) and the AMC. Joining me was good friend and stalwart trail worker Dave Stinson, who drove all the way up from Newmarket, NH to help out. The primary task for today was to hoe out the waterbars and drainage outflows, which were brimming with newly fallen leaves. We also did some intermittent brushing along the way.


Dave brought two long-handled garden hoes. I usually use a heavier hazel hoe, but decided to try the garden hoe out this time. It's alot easier on the back, especially when wearing a pack while cleaning waterbars. I remember trailwork guru Hal Graham of Trailwrights and Belknap Range Trail Tenders recommending a garden hoe for drainage cleaning at one of the annual Four Thousand Footer Cub dinners. After using one for a day, I think I'm a convert.

It was moose hunting season, so we wore our blaze orange in this moose-haunted region.



We know we're getting near the top of Hedgehog when we reach a side path to a ledge just right of the trail with a nice view of the Tripyramids over the Downes Brook valley.



Ledges on the final approach look north to Mt. Tremont/Owl Cliff (left) and Bartlett Haystack (right) with a socked-in Mt. Washington in the center distance and Carter Dome on the far right.

Near the summit we found a trailside clump of a lichen that I believe is Bighorn Cladonia (cladonia cornuta). It's rather stiff and prickly to the touch.


From the NW outlook at the summit Mt. Carrigain rises behind Green's Cliff.


The long E ridge of Mt. Hancock is well-displayed, revealing its two shadowed, south-facing glacial cirques.

After several hours of trail work, Dave takes a well-deserved break at the summit of Hedgehog. In the southern Whites it was a gorgeous late October day - sunny and comfortable.


When at the summit, I always drop carefully down some ledges to a lower perch with a wide-screen vista over the Oliverian Brook valley. Mt. Paugus is on the left.


On the right side of the valley are the eastern spurs of Mt. Passaconaway.



On the far right, the great looming hulk of Passaconaway itself.



From this angle you get a good profile on the ridge of Square Ledge (in foreground; Wonalancet Hedgehog in back), with its nubbly wooded summit on the right end.



Since it was early afternoon, we decided to do the scenic loop over the East Ledges. As the trail descends by rough zigzags off the summit, views open up from several ledges.



The trail ducks into the woods to skirt this rocky hogback.


Another in the series of vistas.


Hedgehog is a little peak at 2,532 ft., but it has plenty of rugged and rocky terrain.



Below the steep descent there's a pretty corridor through a spruce grove. The stretch of trail between the summit and East Ledges is wild and beautiful.



Dave emerges on the East Ledges in the shadow of the main summit.



The expanse of granite along the western part of the East Ledges is one of my favorite spots in the Whites. Many an extended break has been enjoyed here while gazing south into the Oliverian basin.



As the trail heads towards the eastern part of the East Ledges, it tightropes along a clifftop.


From the eastern ledge area Mt. Chocorua is a prominent feature of the view.


Down on the floor of the valley is a small beaver pond/meadow.


I enjoy visiting this remote wetland in winter. From one edge there's a view up to the East Ledges (right) and the Hedgehog summit (left).


From another spot Passaconaway reigns supreme.


Hikers ascending to the East Ledges see this sign shortly before emerging on the slabs.

This view to Bear Mountain (left), Table and Big Attitash Mtns. (center) and North Moat (right) is found at a corner 0.2 mile below the East Ledges.



Farther down there was still some late interior forest foliage.



As we descended to the floor of the valley on the east loop of UNH Trail, we heard two booming gunshots to the north, across the Kancamagus Highway. But no moose hunters were seen or heard on our side of the road. In any case, with the various hunting seasons now in progress, wearing blaze orange is highly recommended for the next six weeks at lower elevations and especially if bushwhacking.

OLIVERIAN BROOK VALLEY: 10/15/09

The snow that fell earlier this week coated the woods from 2500 ft. up. John Compton and I agreed that it was too early in the season to deal with that, so we opted to stay low, where it was still autumn. John had never been in the Oliverian Brook valley, a broad and remote basin between Square Ledge and Mt. Paugus in the Sandwich Range Wilderness, so that was our choice for the day. This is the middle of the valley, seen from Square Ledge.

Our objective was a small cliff on the west slope of "The Overhang" (a spur of Mt. Paugus) that I visited two years ago. The cliff is densely grown on top, but still affords some unique views.


The Oliverian Brook Trail is a gentle and pleasant route up the valley, with many brook vignettes along the way. This spot is a few yards off a section of trail that follows the bed of a branch of the Swift River logging railroad (1906-1916).


New signs at the junction of Oliverian Brook Trail and Passaconaway Cutoff.

Farther up the valley we stopped to admire this big sugar maple.



Parts of the trail were colorfully carpeted.


A gravelly spot in Oliverian Brook where the trail crosses it, 2.7 miles up the valley.


Another face of Oliverian Brook. A fine sense of remoteness in here.


We left the trail by another crossing and headed into woods both thick and thin. This open conifer grove was a nice stretch of whacking.


At the top of the cliff the vegetation was rather dense.


But the standing view was worth it, looking across the valley to snow-speckled Mt. Passaconaway rising behind the great rock face of Square Ledge.

Square Ledge is one of the more impressive cliffs in the Whites, the more so for its remote setting. In his 1916 book, Passaconaway in the White Mountains, Charles Edward Beals described it as "a gigantic scarred face of perpendicular ledge." The 1901 Wonalancet guidebook to the Sandwich Range said "The rock splits in great rectangular blocks and breaks away from below so that the upper part of the cliff overhangs the base. Facing the east it is dazzlingly beautiful in the morning." While eating lunch in the scrub, we were surprised to see several hikers emerge at the outlook atop the cliff. Square Ledge is not a popular destination, and it was midweek after Columbus Day. We met that quartet of hikers later back at the trailhead.

In ascending to the clifftop, the Square Ledge Trail traces a bold route through the diagonal belt of woods to the left of the main cliff face.


Our vantage also offered a view north to Mts. Hancock and Carrigain beyond Hedgehog Mtn. (right) and Potash Mtn. (left).


Hancock looked quite wintry in the dull, gray, November-like light, with some late foliage in the foreground.


John spotted a lower ledge on a nearby spur, so after lunch we headed across this minor ridge through prickly woods. Partway across our traverse, an opening provided a nice view up to Passaconaway and its SE spur, Nanamocomuck Peak.



The spur proved to be surprisingly steep and rugged, with several cliff bands to work around. After a slow, careful descent, John found the ledge down below. It was a nice spot, though the view was restricted.


Looking up, Wonalancet Hedgehog loomed large.

A glimpse south to the head of the valley at Paugus Pass.


By mid-afternoon we had descended back to the trail. At this crossing of Oliverian Brook there is an old log staircase on the west side. We poked around the area in the hope of stumbling on an old logging camp, but no luck.

Returning down the trail, we heard rushing water down to the left. A short bushwhack led us to this pretty little cascade.




Farther down the valley we made another bushwhack to this cascade on a tributary brook.



We made it out with daylight to spare, having enjoyed a mellow valley ramble with some interesting exploration, all below the snowline.