Zealand Notch/Zeacliff Loop: 6/12/23

I took advantage of a rare dry day (at least it was after 9:00 am) for a trail and bushwhack loop in the Zealand region, a longtime favorite of mine. There was wonderful variety along this 10 1/2 mile trek: an array of wetlands and ponds, some good birding, birch forests, the rocky scenery of Zealand Notch, an extended moose sighting, a bit of scrambling, and the incomparable views from Zeacliff (even if on the hazy side).

Typical Zealand Valley spruce forest along the Zealand Trail.

 

Zealand River at a trail crossing.

Full view of Zealand Ridge from the start of the long section of trail through the beaver wetlands in the upper valley. Zeacliff on the left, Zeacliff Pond Peak in the middle, and the summit of Zealand Mountain on the right.

These views of Zealand Ridge have a sort of peaceful, easy feeling.

The long, straight bridge that replaced the former Z-bridge. Mt. Tom in the distance behind the tall tree.

Beavers at work.

Most of the Zealand Trail follows the smooth grade of the late 1800s Zealand Valley Railroad, J.E.Henry's first logging railroad, before he moved on to Lincoln. 

 

Serene.

 

 

 

 

Along this stretch I heard what I'm pretty sure was the song of the uncommon Philadelphia Vireo. The section of trail that parallels the long chain of wetlands is good for birding. Along here I also heard Swamp Sparrows, Alder Flycatchers and several warblers.

The beaver pond just before the A-Z Trail junction opens a view across to Mt. Tom.

I went a short way up the A-Z Trail for another angle on that pond, with a glimpse of the ledgy East Peak of Mt. Hale.

Bunchberry.

Zealand Pond is the last stop along the very scenic Zealand Trail.

Three-way junction.

 

Continuing ahead on the Ethan Pond Trail, which follows the railroad grade into Zealand Notch.

In a few spots the railroad grade has been disrupted by boulder slides and washouts.

After chatting with a local hiker who was enjoying the views on the open rocks in Zealand Notch, I scrambled a short way up the longest slide on the steep flank of Whitewall Mountain, which is used by some as a route to climb to the summit. Most of the rock slides on Whitewall are talus slopes broken off from the cliffs above. This one has plenty of talus, but also has some characteristics of a debris avalanche aka landslide. I've been up Whitewall several times, but never by this route. Many years ago I started up this way and decided it was too unstable and sketchy for my taste. My brief visit this day reinforced that feeling.

Partway through the notch I turned right onto the wild, less-traveled Zeacliff Trail.

At the start, this trail descends over open talus with great views, including this look north to Zeacliff and Mt. Hale.

Lots of Labrador tea blooming in this subalpine environment.

View south down the notch to Mt. Carrigain, Shoal Pond Peak and Mt. Hancock/Northwest Hancock.

Zoomed.

Looking up at the Whitewall cliffs from a rock that served as a fine lunch spot.

Into a northeastern finger of the Pemi Wilderness.

The trail makes a scenic traverse through low subalpine scrub.

Full view of Whitewall, more than you get from the Ethan Pond Trail.

Struggle for survival.

Steep drop to the floor of the notch.

Whitewall Brook.

After running gently across the floor of the notch, Zeacliff Trail gets right down to the business of climbing Zealand Ridge.

Partway up, I left the trail and headed south through lovely glades of hardwood and birch.

Fern-whacking.

There were moose paths in here.

My destination was a nameless sliver of a pond tucked into a pocket on the flank of Zealand Notch. Shoal Pond Peak in the distance.

A peaceful watery swath.

A little spruce-topped ridge cradles the pond on the east.

I heard a splashing across the pond and saw a feeding cow moose come up for air. I sat quietly on a log and watched her duck into the water and then emerge, over and over.

After fifteen minutes or so she decided to head for the woods.

 

That is a large animal!

A beaver was patrolling the pond, and did the tail-slap and dive a few times.

From the shore of the pond I made a steep 400-ft. climb to the crest of the ridge that extends south from Zeacliff.

When I reached the crest I was delighted to find an open forest of spruce and birch.

That lasted for about 100 yards. Then came the hobblebush.

Awash in a clingy green sea.

This was a slow half-mile up the ridge. 

I did glean a nice view of Whitewall from one stand of dead birches.

Zoomed.

 

Mt. Willey, looking ominous in the haze.

Moose paths helped in a few spots. Along one of them was a mysterious mini-cairn.

When I could see them, the birches were beautiful. They are the legacy of the Zealand fires of more than a century ago.

It was a happy moment when I reached the Zeacliff Trail at ~3100 ft.

Higher up, a good little scramble.

Looking back.

A short, steep bushwhack down to the brink of a cliff earned me a vista over the eastern Pemi.

A little higher up, the trail presents two challenging scrambles. This one I remembered from my last climb up this trail in 2006. I hoisted my pack to the ledge above and used two footholds and handholds to haul myself up.

Peering back down.

The second scramble, immediately above the first, I did not recall from my last trip. Hoisted the pack again, planted a boot on the nearly sheer face, and used a sturdy root to pull myself up.

When I looked back at photos from 2006, I realized why I didn't recall this spot. Back then there was a convenient root for a foothold. With that gone, it's a more challenging spot. If that root handhold breaks off...

Looking back down the double scramble. Above here the climbing was fairly steep but routine, then easier up to the Twinway atop Zealand Ridge.

Rhodora was putting on a show along the Twinway.

Plank walkways over a chronically flooded spot, funded by the AMC Four Thousand Footer Committee

Even through the smoke haze from Canadian forest fires, the views from Zeacliff were inspiring.The Nancy Range, Mt. Carrigain and Mt. Hancock dominate the distant view. From here I could look down on the hobblebush-infested ridge I had partly traversed.

Whitewall.

Hancock and Bond.

The Willey Range.

Before descending, I hopped up onto a ledge along the Twinway with a view to Mts. Bond and Guyot. A Bicknell's Thrush was issuing its wheezy song up here.

 

The descent to Zealand Falls Hut is relentlessly rocky. They say if you can hike in the Whites you can hike anywhere.

Cascade on Whitewall Brook.

Ledges on Whitewall Brook, next to the hut.

View down to Zealand Pond and out to Mt. Tom.

Zealand Falls.

Evening at Zealand Pond. On the way out along Zealand Trail I was serenaded by a spiraling chorus of Swainson's Thrushes. Made it out without using the headlamp, barely. The day's bird tally was 25 species.